Antonio Galloni on Grower Champagne

Excerpted from Galloni's notes from issue #186 (Dec '09) except as noted.

CEDRIC BOUCHARD

“…some of the most fascinating wines to emerge from the region. I have been drinking last year’s releases over this past year and the wines have never failed to deliver immense pleasure. All of the Bouchard wines are made in a strictly non-interventionalist method. The organic vineyards are farmed to very low yields. The fruit is hand-harvested and the grapes are crushed by foot and fermented with indigenous yeasts. The wines are aged in stainless steel and are bottled unfined and unfiltered with no dosage. These remain some of the most vivid, eloquent Champagnes readers are likely to come across and I can’t recommend them highly enough.”

2005 Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs Haut Lamblee 93+ Points

2005 Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Blancs la Boloree 95 Points

NV Cedric Bouchard Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs la Parcelle 94 Points

NV Cedric Bouchard Inflorescence Blanc de Noirs Val Vilaine 92 Points

NV Cedric Bouchard Roses de Jeanne Blanc de Noirs les Ursules 95 Points

 

CAMILLE SAVES

“one of the most impressive lineups I can remember tasting from Saves, a small family-run property located in Bouzy, in the heart of Pinot Noir country.”

NV Camille Saves Brut Rose 90 Points

2000 Camille Saves Grand Cru 92 Points

NV Camille Saves Brut Carte Blanche 89 Points

NV Camille Saves Brut Grand Cru Carte d'Or 93 Points

 

RH COUTIER

“The NV Brut Grand Cru Tradition is a very pretty wine that is surprisingly accessible and round for a Champagne from Ambonnay. The NV Brut Rose Grand Cru (base vintage 2006) is built on a core of persistent chalkiness and minerality that frames the expressive fruit.”

NV R H Coutier Brut Rose Grand Cru 89 Points

NV R H Coutier Brut Grand Cru Tradition 88 Points

 

JOSE DHONDT 

“I was quite taken with the two Champagnes I tasted from Jose Dhont, a small grower based in Oger. The NV Blanc de Blancs is an utterly enticing wine from start to finish. The NV Brut Rose de Saignee is a big, rich wine loaded with fruit. This expansive, full-bodied Champagne offers terrific depth and richness, with a long, and exceptionally pure finish.”

NV Jose Dhondt Brut Rose de Saignee 92 Points

NV Jose Dhondt Brut Blanc de Blancs 92 Points           

 

GATINOIS

“This is a striking set of wines from Gatinois, a small domaine located in Ay, a village that is especially renowned for the quality of its Pinot Noir. Proprietor Pierre Cheval-Gatinois prefers stainless steel for most of his wines although a portion of the Brut Grand Cru sees oak. These are beautiful, transparent wines endowed with notable personality and sheer class.” (Dec ‘08)

NV Gatinois Brut Grand Cru Rose 91 Points

NV Gatinois Brut Grand Cru Tradition 91 Points

 

GEORGES LAVAL

“These are the first wines I have tasted from Georges Laval, a small grower based in Cumieres. Laval farms his vineyards according to bio-dynamic principles. The wines are aged in oak and are bottled with no dosage… when Laval gets it right, the results can be exhilarating.”

2004 Laval Georges Brut Nature Millesime Premier Cru les Hautes Chevres 92 Points

NV Laval Georges Brut Nature Premier Cru 87 Points

 

BRUNO GOBILLARD

“Gobillard farms seven hectares of vineyards in Moussy, Epernay, Cramant, Chatillon sur Marne and la Chapelle Monaudon, all of which are located around Epernay itself. These are some of my favorite Champagnes for their superb drinkability. The wines do not undergo malolactic fermentation, which undoubtedly contributes to their freshness and verve.”

NV Gobillard Brut Vieilles Vignes 90 Points

 

GODMÉ

This is a beautiful set of wines from Godme, a small grower based in Verzenay.” (Dec ‘08)

NV Godme Pere et Fils Brut Reserve Premier Cru 90 Points

NV Godme Pere et Fils Brut Rose Grand Cru 88 Points

NV Godme Pere et Fils Brut Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru 89 Points

 

JEROME PREVOST

“Jerome Prevost is one of Champagne’s most fascinating young growers. All of Prevost’s wines are made in a non-interventionalist fashion, which means no fining, filtration or cold stabilization. Prevost’s wines see a minimum amount of time on the lees, which makes them quite vinous in style and generally means they need at least a few years in bottle before they show their best. I can’t recommend these wines highly enough. Curious readers should do whatever they can to taste the magnificent Champagnes of Jerome Prevost.”

NV La. Closerie (Jerome Prevost) Brut Nature les Beguines (Cuvee 2007) 93+ Points

 

LAHERTE FRERES

The NV Brut Tradition is a beautifully precise, chiseled wine.”

 

NV Laherte Freres Brut Tradition 90 Points

 

The NV Extra-Brut Les Clos is not for the timid. This austere, pointed Champagne emerges from the glass with laser-like purity and bracing levels of acidity that are at the extreme end of what readers are likely to come across, even among other extra-brut Champagnes. Still, there is something fascinating about this wine that makes it well worth a try.”

NV Laherte Freres Extra Brut Les Clos 90 Points 

 

The 2004 Extra-Brut Pinot Meunier les Vignes d’Autrefois is another piercing wine from Laherte.

2004 Laherte Freres Extra Brut Pinot Meunier les Vignes d'Autrefois 88 Points

 

LARMANDIER-BERNIER

“Once again I was blown away by the wines I tasted from Larmandier-Bernier. These are some of the purest and most exquisite wines readers are likely to come across. Larmandier-Bernier practices biodynamic farming and the wines all see minimal levels of dosage. Simply put, I can’t recommend the wines highly enough.” 

NV Larmandier-Bernier Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Brut 91 Points

NV Larmandier-Bernier Brut Terre de Vertus 93 Points

NV Larmandier-Bernier Brut Rose de Saignee 95 Points

 

JACQUES LASSAIGNE

“The NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Les Vignes des Montgueux emerges from the glass with perfumed green apples, pears and flowers. This authoritative Champagne reveals plenty of persistence, with chalky tannins that add an element of zestiness to the finish.”

NV Jacques Lassaigne Brut Blanc de Blancs les Vignes de Montgueux 89 Points

 

MOUTARD

“Moutard is a small, family-run estate located in Buxeuil, in the Cote des Bar, that traces its lineage back to the 17th century. These wines are loaded with character and personality, and are all recommended. The NV Brut Grande Cuvee (Pinot Noir) opens with a knockout bouquet of green apples and ripe pears, all of which come to life in a soft, seamless style. The wine finishes with substantial elegance and polish.”

NV Moutard Brut Grande Cuvee 89 Points

 

ULYSSE COLLIN

“Olivier Collin is one of Champagne’s new generation of emerging artisan producers. Collin cut his teeth working alongside Anselme Selosse, and while his wines share some similarities with those of his mentor they also clearly have their own unique voice. The Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs (2005) is a striking wine loaded with a mineral-laced expression of Chardonnay fruit. This taut, focused wine reveals notable inner tension, showing awesome focus and clarity. Notes of salinity on the finish recall a great Chablis.” (Dec 08)

NV Ulysse Collin Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs (2005) 93 Points

 

VOUÉTTE ET SORBET 

“The NV Extra-Brut Blanc d’Argile is simply wonderful. Chablis-like in its purity, the wine shows off a focused expression of smoke, flint, minerals and citrus. The oak gives the Blanc d’Argile just enough richness to counter the bone-dry style.”

NV Vouette et Sorbee Extra Brut Blanc d'Argile 91 Points

 

“The NV Extra-Brut Fidele is an exotic wine with intriguing, slightly oxidative (but not at all unpleasant) tones… reveals compelling inner perfume and commendable balance in a style that comes across like a white vinified on the skins with bubbles.” 

NV Vouette et Sorbee Extra Brut Fidele 88 Points

 

“The NV Extra-Brut Saignee de Sorbee flows with a big, super-ripe, almost-candied expression of red fruit. The wine reveals plenty of depth and richness...”

NV Vouette et Sorbee Extra Brut Saignee de Sorbee 88 Points